Not All Silk Is Created Equal - and Most "Silk" Isn't Silk at All
If you've ever shopped for silk hair accessories or bedding online, you've probably seen the term "momme" thrown around. 19 momme. 22 momme. Sometimes 25 momme. And alongside the real silk, there's a sea of products labelled "silky," "satin," or "silk-like" that are made from something else entirely.
This article breaks down what momme weight actually means, why 22 momme is the standard that matters, and how the fabric touching your hair every night compares to what you might think it is.
What Is Momme Weight?
Momme (pronounced "mummy") is the unit of measurement used to describe the weight and density of silk fabric. It's the silk industry's equivalent of thread count in cotton - except it's a far more reliable indicator of quality.
Technically, one momme equals one pound of silk in a piece of fabric measuring 45 inches by 100 yards. In practical terms, a higher momme number means a denser, more durable, more lustrous fabric.
Here's the range you'll typically see:
- 12-16 momme: Lightweight silk. Used for scarves, linings, and cheaper silk products. Feels thin, almost papery. Wears out quickly.
- 19 momme: Mid-range. Commonly used in pillowcases and basic silk accessories. Decent quality, but noticeably lighter than higher grades.
- 22 momme: The premium standard for hair and skin care products. Dense enough to be durable, smooth enough to minimise friction, heavy enough to drape properly.
- 25+ momme: Heavy silk. Used in some luxury bedding. Denser, but the incremental benefit over 22 momme is minimal for hair care - and the price jump is significant.
Why 22 Momme Is the Sweet Spot
At 22 momme, mulberry silk hits the intersection of performance and practicality. The weave is tight enough that the surface is exceptionally smooth - there are fewer gaps between fibres for hair to catch on. It's dense enough to be durable through regular washing without thinning out. And it's heavy enough to feel substantial against the skin without being stiff or hot.
The Silkett silk bonnet uses 22 momme mulberry silk specifically because it's the grade that delivers real results for hair protection.
Compare that to a 16 momme bonnet - and yes, they exist, often at suspiciously low prices. The weave is looser, which means more surface texture for hair to snag on. The fabric wears thin faster, developing rough patches that defeat the purpose entirely. And it doesn't retain its smooth hand-feel after washing the way 22 momme does.
19 momme is a respectable middle ground for pillowcases, where the fabric is stretched flat over a pillow and doesn't undergo the same stress as a bonnet. But for a bonnet - which is gathered, elasticated, and in constant contact with moving hair - 22 momme is where durability and performance meet.
Now Let's Talk About Everything Else
Silk is one option. But what about the other fabrics your hair regularly encounters? Here's an honest comparison.
Cotton: the friction factory
Cotton is the default. It's what most pillowcases, bonnets, and head wraps are made from. And in many ways, it's the worst fabric you can put against your hair at night.
Cotton fibres are inherently rough at a microscopic level. Even high-thread-count cotton has a textured surface that creates friction against hair. That friction lifts the cuticle, causes tangling, and leads to breakage over time.
Then there's the moisture issue. Cotton is highly absorbent - it can absorb up to 27 times its weight in water. Every night, your cotton pillowcase is pulling natural oils and applied products out of your hair. You wake up with drier, more brittle hair than you went to sleep with.
Cotton has its place - it's great for towels, excellent for casual clothing. But for anything that sits against your hair for hours at a time, it's actively working against you.
Polyester satin: smooth, but that's about it
This is the big one to watch out for. Most products marketed as "satin" bonnets, "satin" pillowcases, or "silky" hair accessories are made from polyester satin. Satin is a weave, not a fibre. You can make satin from silk, polyester, nylon, or any number of fibres. When the label says "satin" without specifying silk, it's almost certainly polyester.
Polyester satin is smooth - that's true. It does reduce friction compared to cotton. But that's where the benefits end.
It doesn't breathe. Polyester is a plastic-derived synthetic. It traps heat and moisture against your scalp, creating a warm, humid environment that can lead to sweating, irritation, and even fungal issues with prolonged use. If you've ever woken up with a sweaty head after sleeping in a satin bonnet, the fabric is the reason.
It generates static. Polyester is a static-prone fibre. That static can cause frizz and flyaways - somewhat counterproductive for a product meant to smooth your hair.
It degrades with washing. Polyester satin develops micro-pilling over time - tiny rough spots on the surface that increase friction. A polyester bonnet might feel silky when new, but after a dozen washes, it's a different story.
It's petroleum-based. This matters to some people more than others, but it's worth knowing. Polyester is derived from petrochemicals. Silk is a natural protein fibre produced by silkworms. If what touches your body for a third of your life matters to you, the origin of the material is relevant.
Bamboo fabric: the misleading middle ground
Bamboo has been heavily marketed as a natural, eco-friendly alternative to silk. "Bamboo silk." "Bamboo satin." The implication is clear: you get silk-like benefits from a more sustainable source.
Here's the reality. The bamboo fabric used in most consumer products is bamboo viscose (or bamboo rayon). To turn a bamboo stalk into a soft fabric, it's processed through an intensive chemical treatment involving sodium hydroxide and carbon disulphide. The resulting fabric is a semi-synthetic - closer to rayon than to anything you'd recognise as bamboo.
Bamboo viscose is softer than cotton, which is a genuine advantage. But it's still more absorbent than silk, meaning it still wicks moisture from your hair. It doesn't have silk's natural protein structure. And it doesn't achieve the same low-friction surface that 22 momme mulberry silk provides.
It's not a bad fabric. It's just not silk, and it shouldn't be presented as equivalent.
The Mulberry Difference
You'll sometimes see "mulberry silk" specified alongside plain "silk." This matters. Mulberry silk comes from the Bombyx mori silkworm, fed exclusively on mulberry leaves. The controlled diet produces the finest, most uniform fibres - longer, smoother, and more consistent than wild silk (tussah) or blended silk.
The result is a fabric with an incredibly smooth surface at the molecular level. Each mulberry silk fibre is a long, continuous filament rather than shorter staple fibres twisted together. That continuity is what gives mulberry silk its distinctive feel - and what makes it so effective at reducing friction against hair.
The Silkett bonnet is 100% mulberry silk at 22 momme. Not blended. Not "silk-enriched." Not satin-weave polyester with a silk label. The real thing.
How to Verify What You're Actually Buying
The silk market has a transparency problem. Here are some ways to tell what you're getting:
- Check the fibre content label. "100% mulberry silk" or "100% silk (Bombyx mori)" is what you're looking for. "Satin," "silky," or "silk-feel" all mean polyester.
- Look for momme weight. Real silk products specify this. If there's no momme weight listed, be suspicious.
- Check the price. Real 22 momme mulberry silk costs more to produce than polyester. If a "silk" bonnet costs $15, it's not silk.
- The burn test (for the committed). Real silk smells like burnt hair when exposed to flame and leaves a powdery ash. Polyester melts into a hard bead and smells like plastic. We don't recommend doing this to a product before you buy it, but it's definitive.
Browse our full collection of silk bonnets and sleeping caps to see the difference for yourself. You can also read what customers say about the quality on our reviews page.
What Your Hair Notices, Even If You Don't
Here's the thing about fabric quality: you might not be able to articulate why one bonnet feels different from another. But your hair knows. The cuticle knows whether it's being roughed up or gliding smoothly. The scalp knows whether it can breathe or is being suffocated. The difference between 16 momme and 22 momme, between polyester satin and real silk, between "close enough" and the genuine article - it shows up in your hair over weeks and months.
Less breakage. Better moisture retention. Healthier shine. These aren't marketing terms. They're the measurable results of choosing the right fabric. For more on the science behind silk and hair care, visit the Sleep Dreams blog.
"I bought a cheap satin bonnet first and thought all bonnets were the same. Then I tried the Silkett and the difference was instant. The cheap one was hot, slippery in a plasticky way, and my hair was still frizzy in the morning. The Silkett feels completely different - cool, soft, and my hair is genuinely smoother when I wake up. You really do get what you pay for."
- Megan D., Hobart ★★★★★
"I'm a fabric nerd so I actually checked the momme weight before buying. 22 momme is the real deal - you can feel the density compared to the thinner silks. Six months of almost nightly use and it still looks and feels new. My bamboo pillowcase, by comparison, pilled within two months. There's genuinely no comparison."
- Rachel K., Canberra ★★★★★
